Trousers are the longest clothing article worn on body and therefore more visible part too. A man can hide his shirt flaws under a jacket or vest or a sweater but any imperfections in his trousers would be easily visible, hence ready to attract eyes on them.
Modern fashion offers an array of casual and formal pants like Chinos, Flannel trousers, Corduroy, Odd trousers or the dress pants all portray different materials, styles, or events but they always feature some basic design elements that make them a man’s style statement.
Any imperfection, subtle or visible can cost a man his reputation and comfort.
Keeping in mind the social image of a gentleman this article elaborates the fundamental parts of pants. Hopefully by the finish line you should be able to determine a right fit of trousers for you.
Fundamental Parts of Trousers
To find perfectly fitting pants every man should be knowledgeable on all pants parts. To look elegant he should also learn about pants break; which is how he wants his pants to hang around shoes.
Waist
Always stand relaxed and upright during the measurement process.
Most important part of trousers is the waist which features a waistband; a thick layer of fabric that holds the trousers at waist and generally contains hooks, buttons and belt loops to fasten the pants.
Waistband of trousers will gently fit around your waist for a comfortable fit. If too loose your trousers will drop; if too tight it will constrict your stomach. A belt always goes through the loops, width of the formal belt should be 1-1.4 inches.
Use measuring tape to measure your waist for the best fit. Measure around the narrowest part, just above belly-button for more precise readings.
Tell your tailor to keep some margin for tucking the shirt in. It is better to wear a shirt and a pair of pants when you visit the tailor so that you are always sure about the best fit of trousers.
Pleats
Just like shirts trousers too have pleats to give more room in the upper legs. Besides, pleats impart the dress pants it original and traditional look.
A pleat is a permanent fold which is generally stitched under the waistband of trousers.
Pleat is a feature of formal pants, i.e. dress pants especially, khaki pants too. Casual pants like denim and chino have no pleats but flat fronts in this case they fit more close to the legs than dress pants.
There is no strict rule but average man should opt for single pleat for a trim look. Bigger men should always choose two pleats to feel comfortable and achieve balance around the seat and thighs.
Flat front trousers come without pleats and they are too formal but less formal than pleated pants.
Crease
Crease is not a part but a feature of dress trousers. In pleated trousers first pleat in the front will extend into a crease. A crease ends at the leg opening. Crease is the grace of any dress pant, always iron and set the crease of your pants to avoid faux pas. Crease also helps in easy folding of trousers.
Fly
It is a key part of any trousers which allows easy wearing of pants. Fly is a tailored cut with a fabric flap, made in middle part of crotch, this too stitched under waistband. Fly may have a zipper or buttons for closure. Flap keeps the opening covered and provides even appearance across crotch. Some men may prefer buttoned closure which includes 2-3 buttons.
Seat
Seat covers your hips. Too saggy your pants and you will look like wearing a sack or too hugging your pants and you will be the most awkward man in the gathering.
Pulling in the seat and wrinkling in the thighs are two of the undesirable defects which may require adjustments in the seat and thighs. Check the trousers fit by squatting halfway and sit on a flat chair to examine tightness in seat. Get all details corrected with your tailor.
Crotch
Crotch is one of the crucial parts of pants. It lies between waistband and the point where legs fork. It includes fly which hides a zipper or button closure. Crotch size varies according to the body type and size and so do the measurement of it.
A small crotch means too tight space and great discomfort and on the other hand a hanging crotch would fall flat. Ideally a crotch should have enough room in a standing position; it should not cling to the groin.
Loops
Small narrow stripes of fabric stitched over the waistband with few inches of equal space between them. Loops work to hold a belt in place. Generally when pants have loops the count may be anywhere from 5 to 8. Ensure right number of loops and their position while buying branded dress pants or trousers.
Pockets
Formal trousers usually have two main front pockets and one rear pocket conventionally on the right. Main pockets may feature side or cross style. Cross pockets provide easy access to the pocket. Some trousers also have fifth small penny pocket in front, a jetted pocket either sewn outside or inside of the waistband.
Legs
Two legs of the trousers are the longest part and measure from crotch to the hem at the bottom end of trousers. This length is known as inseam. Inseam is a number that denotes the length of trousers’ leg. A loose fit will feature roomy legs of trousers meanwhile a slim or tapered fit trousers will have narrow legs. Try the article and ensure proper comfort and easy of movement before finalizing the it.
Leg opening is the end part of legs. Denim being casual have narrow opening which makes the wearing and putting off the garment less comfortable than dress trousers which feature wider opening space. Leg opening is directly related to trousers break. Long break trousers will have wider opening versus narrow opening of no-break pants.
Trousers Break & Cuff
A chief aspect of any dress pants or trousers is the break. A man unsure or unaware about the suitable trouser break according to his height and regular style may commit a serious style mistake.
No-break pans have fix crease throughout, sits slightly above the shoes. Go for a No-break if you are roughly between 5′ to 5’7” and also if you wear tapered (gently narrowing down to the end) trousers.
For the man who always loves to shine, trousers too long or too short could mean a faux pas and he never wants this.
Pant break signifies how crease of a trouser sits over shoes; furthermore, a break is the clearance between the trousers ends and your shoe upper while you are in an upright standing position. You should always wear a proper length of trousers to appear spruce. Having a right break is not only a choice but for some men it is a requirement. If you get a wrong pant break you might not feel as confident.
Full-break pants will make deep crease horizontally [create some waves] and cover most part of lace- Suits more than average height men.
Half-break trousers features a slight bend in the crease and touches shoe top here and there when you walk. It’s a superior choice for most men who want to keep their break neither high nor long.
If you are going to buy a double pleated better wear full break pants. Decide full break if you are a taller guy 6′-6’4”.
Tip Always clean trousers’ cuffs to remove any debris before and after the wear.
Select medium break pants if you are an average height somewhere between 5’8” to 5’11”. Get medium break if you wear Chelsea or dress boots very often.
Cuff
Cuff is an outward fold given to the hem of trousers. Aim of cuff is to add heaviness to the trousers, normally light fabrics like flannel which may have uneven drape without cuffs. In addition to aforementioned facts cuff is a complementary aspect for taller men. Cuffed pants betray viewer’s eyes and offset long legs.
