In a collared shirt neck and shoulders look more coherent and the collar creates a better shape of face, that otherwise would create an imbalance.
Need of a collar?
The question may be asked that if a shirt should have a collar. Well the answer is yes. Imagine a man wearing dress shirt without a collar, it would instantly seem inappropriate, but why? One suitable explanation can be- neck is a region which is vertical and it joins shoulders which are the widest part in human body.
For a streamlined appearance it is important to shape the joining line and cover it to the extent that takes you from sloppy to stylish.
That’s not it, all men have varying neck height, width and face shapes that set the choice of collar type for a particular person. Some men have thick and short neck which may offset by wearing a pointed collar. A medium size collar will counterbalance a long neck. Otherwise a long neck in small and pointed collar would look like a crane.
Keeping all that vital information in mind let’s meet with all popular and practical collar types vs face types.
Collar Spread
Have a careful look at different collar designs. Each collar has a gap between the collar points which is termed as spread of the collar. Different collars have a particular spread such as cutaway collar has almost horizontal distance between two collar points; meanwhile a classic point collar has a small spread.
Collar being the nearest element to your face plays very important role in your appearance, especially when you are dressing up. While buying a shirt men must pay special attention to the type of collar they want.
A wide spread collar can fit medium-to-thick tie knots- Full Windsor. An average collar spread can fit small-to-medium tie knots.
Collar Height
Another key feature of a collar is the height of it; which measures vertically from point A to B. Collar height works simultaneously with Collar spread. For instance when you decide a collar spread according to your face you also need to take its height into account.
Say, a man with longer face needs a collar then he should choose wider spread to offset his long face but he should also ask the tailor to increase collar height to minimize long neck. Furthermore, a man with short neck and wider face should choose some pointed collar and reduce the collar height to add balance to his face.
Collar Types
Standard Point Collar
Standard collar features the most suitable style of collar for almost all face shapes. It comes in many variants and can be worn with or without a tie. A standard collar has pointed tips and suits formal background. It is also a regular collar design since most shirt brands design the dress shirts with a standard collar. A regular collar can accommodate narrower tie knots. It is also pointed and well-suited for round and heart shape face type.
- Alias- Point collar
- Formal style
- Team up- with suit and tie,
Button-down Collar
A button-down collar is a characterized by longer collar points or ends with two small buttonholes on the collar tip to secure two small buttons. Its size may vary from medium to large.
Therefore, button-down collar attains a cleaner look with a tie. This is a more sporty kind of collar style but works as well in business casual. A casual button-down white or blue mini checked shirt looks great with denims and chinos. Traditionally a button down shirt is worn few buttons open for an easy-going feel.
Button down collars offer less space for wider tie knots. Button down collar fits almost all shirt patterns including- Mini checks, pencil stripes, pin stripes, wide stripes, windowpane, variegated strip.
- Collar size- larger
- Collar spread – moderate
- Tie Knot size- medium
- Formality- business ≈ casual
- Team up- with suit and tie, chinos, trousers and sports coat
- Collar stays- Use collar stays to achieve a crisp look
- Buttoning rule- always button-up collar
- Compliments- face shapes- square, round
Spread collar
Self-explanatory, it has a wider spread than point or button-down collar. Spread collar gives you wider space between collar points and suits for business and formal occasions. It also compliments all face types- round, rectangle, square or oblong. You can wear near all thick tie knots with this collar type.
- Collar size- medium
- Collar spread – wider
- Tie knot size- Windsor and other thicker knots- Not for slimmer knots
- Formality- business > casual
- Team up- with suit and tie, chinos, trousers and sports coat
Cutaway Collar
The widest of all collar style with a range of 130-180 degrees of angle between two collar ends. This collar features unique design of a collar. A cut away collar without a tie is another casual option for men. There is no limit to necktie knots from four-in-hands to Windsor or full Windsor, it can take all of them.
It better fits oval, rectangle and diamond face shapes because it takes away the attention from long face to the width of the body frame.
- Collar size- small
- Collar spread – widest
- Tie Knot size- Windsor and other thicker knots
- Don’t wear narrow tie knots with it.
- Team up- with suit and tie, chinos, trousers, denims and sports coat
Club Collar
A small round at the corners is a club collar. A round and heart face shape should abstain from a club collar. It does not compliment men with plump face since it adds roundness to the face. Round collar is not much popular and makes least preference for men in routine wear.
- Collar size- medium
- Collar spread – narrow
- Tie Knot size- short and narrow knots
- Team up- with suit and tie or without tie
- Compliments- men with soft facial features
Mandarin Collar
Mandarin collar is an awesome collar type for men. It is ultra casual with small muted collar hint around the neckline of a shirt. You can either do or keep undone the top button as suits. A linen shirt with a standing collar worn with a casual chino or denim is a unique casual ensemble.
There is no tie option available with mandarin collar.
- AKA band collar or standing collar or Chinese collar
- Collar size- smallest
- Collar spread – narrower
- Tie Knot size- no provision for ties
- Pair with- denim, trousers, business casual, sport jacket
- Looks fashionable and elegant
- Looks good on men with medium head size
- Compliments- men with short or medium hair-cut. Watch jet li movies for a perfect look.
Tab Collar
A close relative of the pin-collar, tab collar is a narrow point collar with a small tab to keep collar firm and hold the tie in right position. It’s a classy collar style fit for dressing a level up than others. Always combine with a tie, never wear bare of it.
Tab – a small strip with a small button
- Collar size- large pointed
- Collar spread – narrower
- Tie Knot size- narrow tie knots
- Pair with- business or corporate setting, suit and sports jackets
- Looks suave and modern
