A suit jacket is a tailored garment, a keystone of a suit ensemble. It is a formal or semi-formal jacket that coordinates trousers made from the same fabric. A suit jacket comes in wool, tweed, or linen, choice of the material depends upon weather, occasion and other articles.
A suit jacket is a key component of formal or semi-formal attire. It adds a touch of suaveness, professionalism, and savoir faire to a man’s image.
A suit jacket completes the outfit, creating a cohesive and streamlined look.
In colder weather, a suit jacket provides an additional layer of insulation, keeping the wearer warm and comfortable. It adds an extra barrier against cold winds and helps retain body heat.
Suit Jacket Parts
Collar
The collar is the part of a suit jacket that wraps around the neck. It uses the same fabric as the rest of the jacket and helps frame the wearer’s face. It frames the face and provides structure to the garment.
Here’s how the collar works in a suit jacket:
- The collar should fit comfortably around neck without being too tight or too loose. It should follow the natural contour of the neck and allow for ease of movement.
- The collar is seamlessly integrates with the lapel, forming a continuous line between the two. This blend creates a smooth and polished look.
Lapel
Lapels in a suit serve several important functions. Here are the main functions of lapels:
Lapels are a prominent visual element of a suit jacket, as they contribute to its overall style and aesthetics. They elevate character, sophistication, dressiness of the garment. A suit jacket may feature any of the three main styles, such as notch, peak, or shawl lapels.
Lapels create a visual line from the collar to the jacket’s front, drawing attention to the center of the outfit. The width and shape of the lapels can impact the perceived proportions of the wearer’s face and body.
Lapels provide the attachment points for the buttons, or fasteners on the front panels of the suit jacket.
Lapels also affect the placement of pockets on the front of the jacket. The chest pocket sits on the left lapel and is used for accessorizing with a pocket square or storing small items.
The lapel style and width can indicate the formality and aptness of a suit against the occasion. For example, notch lapels should be suitable for varied circumstances, while peak lapels exhibit a high style.
Front Panel
In a suit jacket, the front panel refers to the sections of fabric that overlap and fasten together to create the closure. It is the part of the jacket that is visible when the jacket is buttoned up.
The front panel is responsible for the jacket’s opening and plays a significant role in the overall style and fit. The two main types of front panels in suit jackets are:
Single breasted jackets have a single front panel that slightly overlaps and fastens on one side. The front panel typically has notches or rounded edges where the lapels meet, creating a V-shaped opening when buttoned. Single suit jackets are the most common and versatile style, suitable for a range of formal and casual occasions.
Double panel jackets have two front panels that overlap to a much greater extent and fasten with two parallel rows of buttons. The front panels often have a wider overlap, creating a larger and more pronounced lapel. Double suit jackets are known for their heavily formal and elegant appearance and should be worn at formal events.
Jacket Buttons
Buttons in a suit jacket serve both functional and fashion purposes.
Primary purpose of buttons in a suit jacket is to secure the front panels together, creating a closure. In a single-breasted jacket, the buttons are located on one side of the front panel, and when fastened, they hold the jacket closed. In a double-breasted jacket, both sides of the front panels have buttons, and they are fastened together in a symmetrical manner.
Fit and Tailoring
When the buttons are fastened, they help maintain the jacket’s structure and shape, ensuring that it contours well to the wearer’s body. The buttons can also enhance the silhouette by defining the waistline and creating a fitted appearance.
Adjustability
The positioning of the buttons on the front panel affects how jacket sits on torso. For example, single suit jackets often have button placement at different heights. This allows the wearer to choose the button that aligns best with their body shape and personal preference, providing some flexibility in the jacket’s fit.
Aesthetics and Style
Buttons come in various sizes, shapes, colors, and materials, allowing for customization and personalization. The choice of buttons can add visual interest, improve the overall design, and complement the fabric and color of the jacket.
Pocket Types
When we hear the name pocket, we think of it as a utilitarian aspect of any garment. But a pocket can go beyond that. It can add details, offset suit jacket dimensions.
Flap Pockets
This is the most common type of pocket found on suit jackets. Flap Pocket is rectangular-shaped with a flap of fabric that covers the opening. It provide a sleeker and dressier profile. It also offers a secure way to store small items like a wallet or keys.
Welt Pockets
Welt pocket is essentially a small, slit-like pocket with a narrow fabric edge, creating a discreet opening. It lacks flaps, resulting in a cleaner and more refined appearance. Few example of welt pockets are, Chest pockets or as additional interior pockets.
Ticket Pocket
Also known as a “slip pocket,” is a smaller pocket placed above one of the main pockets on the suit jacket’s front. Historically, ticket pockets could store train or theater tickets, hence the name.
Patch Pockets
Patch pockets are casual version of suit pockets. They are large, visible pouches that are sewn directly onto the outside of the jacket’s front without any additional flaps or edges. Patch pockets often have rounded corners and visible stitching. In general, casual suits, sports coats, or informal blazers will have such pockets.
Barchetta Pocket
A barchetta pocket, which translates to “little boat” in Italian, is a curved or slanted welt pocket. It gets its name from the shape resembling a small boat. They best compliment higher-end bespoke or custom-made suits, adding a unique and elegant detail to the jacket’s front.
Common Vent Types
The common vent types found in suit jackets are:
Single Vent
It is a vertical opening or slit in the center of the jacket’s back. It extends upward from the bottom hem, providing ease of movement and allowing the jacket to drape smoothly over the hips. Single vents are commonly associated with American-style suit jacket and are considered a classic and traditional choice.
Double Vent
Double vents are two vertical slits on either side of the jacket’s back. They provide even more freedom of movement, enhancing the jacket’s fit and silhouette. Side vents often represent British and European tailoring. They are more formal and stylish than centre vent, and create a more flattering shape for individuals with wider hips.
No Vent (Ventless)
In some suit jackets vents are missing at the back. These ventless jackets have a sleek and streamlined appearance, as there are no visible openings or slits. However, no-vent can limit mobility and ventilation to some extent. Therefore, they are less common in contemporary suit designs.