Properly cut suit not only makes you look systematic but also says a lot about your sartorial skills.
An Ill-fitting Suit
Over-All Fit
An overall fit suggest shoulders, sleeves, yoke, collar fitting, torso fit (chest, waist). If your suit is loose in any of these areas it won’t fit you properly. Let us talk about each of them one by one.
Shoulder Fit
Shoulder is the key area of a suit. It comes into notice as soon as people look at you. Shoulder seams of the suit jacket should coincide with your shoulder points. Shoulder line of the jacket should not have any ripples or waves. Get it fixed.
Sleeves Length
If the sleeves swallow your arms completely your jacket needs adjustments in the sleeves. A proper sleeve length is slightly above the wrist joint. Sleeve length should be long enough to show about a centimeter of your shirt cuff. That means your shirt sleeves will reach a little further than the jacket sleeves.
Body Fit
Body of the suit jacket covers chest, back and waist. No wrinkle should appear in the chest while you put on a jacket, that it should cut a sharp silhouette along the body, especially in waist. Same way rear of the jacket must fit snugly around your upper and lower back. Jacket should have enough room in seat and below the waist.
Length of Jacket
Length of the jacket is vital. A short jacket on taller man or a too long jacket on short man will look out of place. That suggests an adequate length of jacket on every man. Ideally the jacket length should touch the knuckle of your thumb given you stand erect with hands falling naturally by your side.
Essential Suit Colours For MEN
Odd Pairing of Either Jacket or Trousers
Men do it unwittingly and victimize themselves, besides shortening suit life by years. It occurs this way; when you wear a suit jacket with odd trousers it does not look proper, because a suit jacket and trousers are always meant to be worn together. Next, you wear out one piece faster than the other (either jacket or pants) rendering the pairing impossible after sometime. This situation is terrible for your pocket and ruins the wardrobe. Quality suits, expensive jackets and branded shoes require intense care and wise use.
- To avoid this mistake put on suit jacket and its trousers together always as a rule.
- Buy a navy blazer and one universal colour sports jacket to handle business casual and smart casual scenario smartly.
Wearing Wrong Style of Suit to an Event
There are certain categories of suits depending upon when to wear them. Business suits are worn for business events, work and business trips. Casual suit are slightly different construction for smart casual occasion. Tuxedo is reserved for special promotions and black tie event.
Throw on a navy blazer at work, wedding or parties. A sports jacket is more casual layer of clothing due to its textures and colours and fitting as well. Sports jacket is not supposed to fit so snugly. You can have one tailored to fit you smartly, that’s no problem.
Matching Wrong Accessories
Neckties
You can suddenly bring down all splendour of a suit by accessorizing a tie of wrong colour or pattern. Since there are no strict rules to match you ties with shirts and jacket but we can consider some points to pair neckties with any formal outfit.
- Formal ties with formal outfits and casual ties with casual outfits. But seldom one can dress down a formal suit with a casual tie to a certain degree.
- Either match tie with suit or pair it to complement the suit and keep a high contrast with the shirt you wear, if you match tie colour with the shirt the two will blend and purpose of the tie will fail, viz. you can wear a black tie with black suit and white shirt wherein it will match the suit and contrast perfectly with the white shirt but if you wear a red or blue tie with the same black suit it will complement (won’t match either piece) both the suit and the shirt.
PERFECT GUIDE ON MATCHING TIE WITH OUTFIT
Squares
Most men match squares with ties exactly the same colour and pattern. In fact most brands sell combo packs of matching tie and pocket squares.
- Remember exactly same colour and pattern tie and square don’t look fetching and draw unnecessary attention.
- A pocket square and tie are two independent yet coordinating elements of an outfit. Tie is essential in formal and business context but square are optional.
- Men can also wear a square in the suit jacket if they wish not to wear a tie.
Socks
All men should own pairs of some basic colour socks, viz. two black, navy, grey and brown. You can wear these socks with almost all colour of formal trousers and they also match or flatter black. Brown, tan, grey colour shoes.
- Match black socks with black trousers.
- Match black or navy with navy and dark blue trousers.
- Match brown with brown trousers.
- Match grey and black with grey trousers.
Matching Wrong Shoes with Suit
Men make two mistakes here
- First mistake is pairing wrong shoe style.
- Combining sports shoes with a suit and tie is a blunder.
- Casual loafers with formal suit.
- Boots with suit. Three boots namely Dress boots, Chelsea boots and chukka boots can be team with a suit. Chelsea can perform more formal than two other boots, thanks to its sleek one piece design. Other casual boots should be worn with denim only since they are extremely casual.
2. Wrong colour shoes with a suit
- Dark black shoes work well with black , navy and grey suits. Brown shoes can too integrate navy and grey suit outfits.
Wearing Suit On All Occasions
It’s true that dressing up requires wearing a suit for a suit holds highest degree of formality but to look sharp on normal occasions you need not fling on a suit always. Some men may stress themselves for not having an expensive suit to integrate a completely grand look.
Contrarily to give the impression of a heartthrob to women or to exude flamboyance in the room all basic elements of your attire must be clean, ironed, fitting, smartly coordinated and well-cut. That redirects the focus to the shirt, trousers, and shoes as principle articles of your wardrobe.
Power dressing requires attention to every detail including accessories.
Never Wearing A Suit
Don’t you have a single suit in wardrobe? Get tailored one in navy or grey shade. When you must wear a suit you have to wear a suit. In formal or business situations you are expected to deck out and a suit is perfect garment to execute that. Wear nice clothing all the time but wear a suit when or where everyone else will be wearing a suit.
Suit Buttoning Mistakes
All three types of jackets should be buttoned up while standing and unbuttoned when sitting. Some men may wish to keep the suit jacket open but that is against the buttoning protocol.
A single-buttoned jacket creates no confusion. Men should always button up the only button on a single-buttoned suit jacket and undo the button when sitting.
Top button on a two buttoned suit jacket should always be fastened while lower button should be kept open. Men should undo the top button as well when sitting.
When you are wearing three buttoned suit jacket it is important to know which button to fasten. In general middle button is done compulsorily and top button is optional, but done most of the time. Third lowest button is always left open.
Not knowing How to Carry a Suit
A suit is special construction, you may treat T-shirt and denim outfit roughly, sit on grass and play cricket wearing it. Suit features unwrinkled surface and creased outlines.
You need extra caution to carry this garment. Your bearing, sitting posture and hand position all are equally important.
- For instance, keeping hands in pockets for a long time while you stand does not look elegant in a suit.
- No unbuttoning jacket when you sit.
Construction Flaws
Suit construction flaws may include
- Wrong cut
- Poor stitching
- Incorrect fitting
- Collar Sticking out
- Inferior lining material
- Wrong position of pockets
- Too long lapel
- Longer sleeves beyond wrist joint
- Wrong vent position and length
- Number of Cuff Buttons
Shirt Collar Sticking out
Shirt collar should always stay inside the suit jacket lapel in all cases, whether you wear a tie or not. always check for it since shirt collar tends to go out of its normal position. This small thing can spoil your impression in the public while you are wearing an expensive suit and socializing.
